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Lost In Tradition - Summer 2006
26_Indie.pdf

Lost In Tradition - Summer 2006

The story of the talented offspring of a fashion enterprise, who learned his skills in his family's business just to come up with his own label after some years, isn't new at all. But when the mentioned talent isn't the descendant of a famous couturier but a member of a little prestigious clothes chain dynasty, it's worth a closer look, particularly, when this descendant is eager to revolutionize the glutted market of sophisticated designer fashion with his collection's concept. His name: Alexander Brenninkmeijer. His background: the C&A dynasty. His label: "Clemens en August". Alexander Brenninkmeijer neither can nor wants to evade the successful story of his famous ancestors Clemens and August Brenninkmeijer, who travelled the countryside of the 19th century with a carriage to sell precious fabrics to wealthy Dutch landlords. After all, this was the keystone of the successful family business, in the meantime one of the world's biggest textile enterprises: C&A, today a synonym for inexpensive fashion. On the one hand, the young drop-out is trying hard to keep a sufficient distance between himself and the family business but on the other hand he is however strongly connected to his ancestors by the tradition of a travelling merchant 150 years later, and besides the respectful and loving name of his label: "Clemens en August" (Dutch for - guess what? - Clemens and August). His goods -according to the individual selling strategy- aren't offered at shops but only shown and sold twice a year at well chosen and exclusive locations like galleries or museums. By now, this "selling tour" includes eleven cities, among them Berlin, Hamburg, Zurich and Copenhagen - this very April, "Clemens en August" stayed at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Vienna. The presentations at the different locations are puristic and reduced to the essentials, just like the pieces of clothes themselves. Without any trace of "selling show" the collection is hanging on simple cloth rails and is presented to the small circle of fashion insiders. This understatement is appreciated by the exclusive client base which basically consists of aesthetic artists who earn a good salary. There is no advertising; that goes without saying. Besides a small e-mail mailing list the system runs on word-of-mouth recommendation. To purchase one of the precious pieces it is not enough just to know the tour dates. Speed is of even importance; after all only three pieces of each item are produced per city and per size. But back to Alexander Brenninkmeijer's unspectacular beginnings of his career, which lead him through some positions in the family business where -as it was expected- he gained extensive experiences on the field of fashion and business. It was not until he took a year off to forbear from family business when the decision to go separate ways from now on has been taken (on a trekking tour through the Himalaya, as it is said). At first, he helped the designer Kostas Murkudis to build up his newly established high fashion label of the same name in Munich. This was followed by five years of managing the successful small-scale enterprise until Murkudis preferred to move on to Berlin, and Brenninkmeijer took the decisive step and brought "Clemens en August" into being. At first, for reasons of economy, the collections were shown directly at the atelier. This was initially not more than an inside thing among friends but developed into a successful conception. Expensive costs of distribution, extremely high shop rents as well as unnecessary personnel costs were spared. And this modest company with financial means was made possible also for his clients right from the beginning. After all, the exclusiveness of a label is not defined by too highly calculated prices but by a well thought-out selling and (anti-) marketing strategy. "A three-piece classic suit ought to cost 1,150 euro. We sell it for 380 euro plus VAT", Brenninkmeijer states proudly, "Who spends half a month's salary on a good suit? This is just not up-to-date any more.", says the 38-year-old, Dutch by birth, who despite the propensity to save moved into an impressing loft atelier on the premises of a former garage in Munich. An essential share in the label's success has Brenninkmeijer's wife Micheline, who once made a living from modelling and organizing fashion shows. Today she is in charge of the extremely important selection of high-quality fabrics. "To get something going with members of your family is always something special. I can rely on my wife 100%. Without her, Clemens en August wouldn't exist. Since we both know this there is a special kind of connection between us.", says family man Brenninkmeijer. Supported by a small but well trained team, ideas are born and realized by "Fast Couture" technique. The selection of fabrics, the process of designing and the production of the collections which consist of suits, shirts, coats, jeans, and T-shits for men and women, all are subject to one unique course. The style of "Clemens en August" is characterized by elegance, plain and clear cuts, high-quality materials and a specific amorousness for details. A simple women's shirt for example surprises with an integrated scarf which can be wound around the waist as well. "The items do not necessarily attract attention when they are on coat hangers, you have to try them on or see others wearing them first to notice the difference to comparable pieces." says Brenninkmeijer, who calls Helmut Lang his biggest idol fashionwise. This is why most of the classic "C en A"-clients often see themselves as independent individuals, unimpressed by advertising. The nomad label avoids unnecessary placating ("there is so much exaggeration everywhere anyway") but stresses out stylistic modesty. Contained and silent is Brenninkmeijer also when it comes to his famous family. "At first, the relatives were extremely surprised and sceptic." ,admits the father of a two-year-old. The concern about the reputation of the family and about competitors from their own clan are concerns of the past. Meanwhile, also the last critical voices grew silent: the Brenninkmeijers are glad about the success of the bearded outlaw and some family members even proudly own a "Clemens en August" piece. The couturier does not want to handle his dismount from the family business as a provocation or a declaration of war by no means. The name of his label is rather a homage to his ancestors, who inspired him to go on tour with his collection. Beside the bow to the mighty heritage, a little portion of rebellion has certainly its share in Alexander Brenninkmeijer's solo after leaving the family business with his own drafts and his downright counter-drafts. The "C en A" couture fortunately has absolutely nothing in common with the multicolour discount mass production of C&A (called "cheap and awful" by some evil tongues).
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